![]() 04/01/2020 at 10:47 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
The bushings in the rear of my 2010 CVPI are all shot. Here is a complete kit that includes the Watts links and sway bar links. Reasonable price. Thoughts?
![]() 05/10/2020 at 10:51 |
|
Quite a common name, at least in Europe. Might be a German brand? Not sure
![]() 05/10/2020 at 10:54 |
|
Meyle is OE for german OEMs . My Mini and BMW has some Meyle stuff on it, seems to be good quality.
![]() 05/10/2020 at 10:56 |
|
Depending on your intentions for it, there are aftermarket control arms that provide way better rigidity in the rear, but they are more expensive.
To answer your original question, I’ve not heard of that brand off-hand, but crown vic parts aren’t exactly rocket science :)
![]() 05/10/2020 at 11:09 |
|
Meyle is usually the OEM for BMW bushing/links while Lemfö rder is the usual OEM for the VW group, not sure on which is for Mercedes and definitely no clue about Ford .
In any case, be sure that t hese eBay parts are not fake and definitely dont go for noname or even brands that are not bushings/links specialists (even if they are reputable parts maker) , for example i got both the Audi OEM (made by Lemförder) front swaybar bush ings and the Febi-Bilstein (which is not the same group as Bilstein) equivalent and the Febi w ere sensibly softer .
![]() 05/10/2020 at 11:12 |
|
Are you versed in CVPI? The rear end is four-link with a Watts link. The bushings in my car’s rear end appear to be totally shot, though I cannot confirm on the Watts link arms. There are parts out there, reasonably priced at ~ $30 per link. Moog, Mevotech, some of it AC Delco. Turns out the kit I posted here doesn’t fit my car. There are also plenty of links and kits on eBay with no brand given.
![]() 05/10/2020 at 11:55 |
|
I only limped one along for about 6 years and repaired just about everything on it along the way :)
https://oppositelock.kinja.com/tag/crown-vic-content
Mine badly needed the rear bushings replaced, but not to the point of being a safety issue. If I did them, I would have gone with the cheaper billet aftermarket ones from ADTR (and probably their sway bars). While the watts link provides most of the lateral positioning of the axle (which I did replace on mine and it improved things) the overall floppiness of the factory stamped arms leaves a lot to be desired.
For stock style parts, I’d go with a midrange brand from Rockauto
![]() 05/10/2020 at 12:14 |
|
The ADTR billet stuff is literally like ten times as expensive. I’m going to call mine a safety issue because at 80 mph, a little bit of steering input can make things get downright scary.
So, Moog?
![]() 05/10/2020 at 12:15 |
|
Did you do any tuning mods to the engine? 250 hp is not a lot for that size of car.
![]() 05/10/2020 at 12:33 |
|
In the 4-5 years since I looked, it’s possible they stopped carrying the ones I was looking at, was a couple hundred bucks for the full set. Sounds like it’s very well due on yours, though! Even just the watts link should be a big improvement. Make sure the stud on top of the diff isn’t broken, I think you can get ARP replacements if so.
Moog has three lines of product, and for the life of me I can’t remember their names, but as long as it’s not the bottom rung, they tend to be pretty good. I know ‘problem-s
ol
ver’ is the top.
![]() 05/10/2020 at 12:35 |
|
Nothing major; it was never really fast but it was good for what it is. The healthy 4.6 and 3L
27 rear are ‘adequate’ - I did swap to a 70mmTB and ported the plenum for whatever marginal gains that yields; replacing the MAF helped a bit, too (and when I found out the spark plugs were original at 170k miles that maintenance did a lot, too). At one point I was considering a tune but the car was never really worth the cost to do major upgrades, mainly just maintained (so much rust)
![]() 05/10/2020 at 12:38 |
|
Mine has an open 3.27 and I have a LSD 3.55 for it. Will change out the links when I install the rear end.